В К. над городом на горе если идти с пару часов верхней дорогой на восток в сторону Метохи, дорогой живописной поскольку сверху открывается панорама на весь залив и еще более живописной когда асфальт заканчивается и заканчиваются дома, машины и городской шум и ты попадаешь наконец в долгожданную дикость природы и безлюдие, через какое-то время дорога приводит к наверняка бывшему святилищу неких нимф или какого-то местного пана жившего в гроте-пещере а рядом с его жилищем протекала и все еще бежит речушка с верховий горы О. пересыхающая летом а сейчас на пороге весны звонко дающая о себе знать из ущелья. На месте того святилища греки православные соорудили церквушечку которая уместилась в том небольшом гроте каменистые очертания которого проступают местами сквозь потолок и стены Спилеотиссы. Такое имя дано этому месту православными и теперь похожему на нимфеон где прохлада и веселые крики плещущихся в воде невидимых созданий дышат покоем приглашая остановиться, перевести дух вдохнуть свежесть и влажность теней. Мы и в самом деле пробыли там не пять минут и не десять созерцая далекое море и поедая апельсины, окруженные живой мягко колышущейся под ветром зеленью. Потянуло осмотреть каждый сантиметр интерьера и запечатлеть интересные иконы. Там был стол и две тетради в одной из которых записи приходивших а несколько последних из них — только священника видимо за церквушкой присматривающего, он раз в несколько дней приходит и благодарит Богородицу говоря что все хорошо и обращает к ней мольбы за жителей здешних мест дабы дала им всем здоровья и… уже точно не помню — благополучия. Множество записей начинаются со слов Παναγία μου… Светило солнце немногу склоняясь к горизонту и ускользая на запад было тихо как бывает в горах…
This name of the place in South-Eastern Evia is translated as the “ancient city”. There is no city, and even no village, only some remnants of the old mines and the polis that existed long ago. And a church. It takes about two hours by car (50 km) from Karystos to the tiny village Thymi, composed of around five houses. You have to leave your car on the ground road just above the village, and to walk down taking more water with you because this part of the island is wild, dry and waterless. Do not even dream about taverna or something like that – you will find neither a place to eat nor a shop. This land is completely abandonned, and that’s what attracts me so much in it.
It seems that the houses in Thymi look and are built exactly according to the ancient houses’ model. This is a small bit of the Classical period lost in time. There is a marked path from Thymi. There’s nothing difficult in following it, going towards the rocks over the sea. However, when you go above the rough dynamic sea, beware of the wind. It is really strong. And if you’re not gone with the wind, your sleeping pad has all chances to fly far and deep.
It takes one hour to get to Archampoli.
There’s a beach, and there’s no one on the beach.
Only the wind. And the deeply excited Aegean, ανακατεμένη η θάλασσα, and you rock on the waves and cry and laugh in purely childish joy.
You spend the night amidst the elements, and wake up with the sunrise, and realise once again that you’re a small human creature in a postcard that became a real reality.
Bad sound of the strong summer wind in Southern Evia:
Paximada is a promontory on the South Euboia. At this point the seasonal summer north wind meltemi, μελτέμι, exceeds 100 km/hour. The sea becomes rough and dynamic, you feel sand and rock dust on your teeth, you can’t walk vertically, the air is full of music of spheres, finally, meltemi can just take you like a sand grain and throw into the sea. This almost happened to me once, but I grabbed the air with my terrified hands, and that was what saved me from the falling from the rock. Victim of the small stones shrapnel, I got red bruises on my legs… What an adventure!
Once upon a time, we decided to climb the mount Ochi (1.398 m) on the Euboia island. In summer. In one day, and to come back the same day. We were young and brave.
The way to the Ochi seemed to be short and easy when we contemplated it from below trying to guess which path and road we will follow. However, the optics of this area deteriorates the real condition of things and makes them seem closer. In fact, our ascension turned out to be higher and rather difficult. Quite difficult in the middle of our trail, and very difficult after we returned home.
No verdure covers the mountain. There are plenty of sources and small waterfalls at the bottom of the Ochi, and this is what makes the villages just above our city K. so attractive: they’re plunged into freshness and shadows. But after you leave behind you the last house of such a village, you cannot hope for a shadowy naturally green shelter anymore. Still, as we started our journey early in the morning, the sun was not burning until we reached the eastern slopes of the mountain.
At one spot, there was a bench of ancient roman columns of green marble called cipollino. There were mines in this area and for some reason the columns were left on the mountain without having been transferred down to the city of K.
The way to the summit was torny and painful. Per aspera ad astra… at some point the path met the road, oh, this could be a royal road to the sky, but the sun was already strong, and there was no shadow, and there was very little water left. I was not sure I would be able to climb the highest spot of the Ochi; if we were out of water, I would become exactly like this wild place – dried out and lifeless. We made a stop and had our lunch in a tube under the road, the only cool place, the only shadow on our way. The other end of the tube had a wonderful view to the eastern slopes of the mountain and to the sea.
There was only one hope: a bit higher, in a so called katafygio, in a hut for the rare tourists, we had to find some water. The hut was closed, we were the only two souls – and bodies suffering from thirst! – and there was water!!! Vrisi! How grateful I was…
We continued a bit later, after a good break. The top of the mount was still far, we passed by the tiny church of the Prophet Elias – the churches dedicated to Elias are mostly built in Greece high in the mountains. Later it was a legendary drakospito on our path, and that was it, that was almost the very top of the Ochi. The best location ever, the best panorama of the Cycladic and other islands, and an unexpectedly wonderful internet connection that was not working down in the city.
We had wine, we had lamb meat; the air was fresh and so cool up there. We needed nothing except return home that very day. We had so few time to enjoy the heights.
The way back and down was even more difficult. Once or twice we lost our way and gods bless me because I insisted on looking for the marked path which we lost, when A. proposed to take any of the old goat paths and go straightly down through the torny bushes which no one knows where they lead and how they end.
Those people in the villages above K. who saw us in the morning were extremely surprised to see us again and especially to hear that we climbed the Ochi, that we did it, and that now we were on our way home. In one day! It’s surely not a Greek way.
A. insisted that we go first to the sea to swim a bit because the sea it’s thalassotherapy you know and after that we will feel much better, no fatigue and no pain, relax you know, and that we go home only after this quick therapeutic bath. That was quite a crazy idea but I obeyed. I doubt we felt better afterwards. We came back on our last legs around midnight, and the next day we literally could not move our legs. Deep, huge muscle soreness did not allow us to leave our house the whole day after our adventure. The day after – same shit! We merely walked inside our apartment, and our motions looked too much like those of zombies… For around two weeks we were suffering from this terrible delayed onset muscle soreness…
– ‘Οχη? – No, thanks! ‘Οχι! Never ever again 🙂