Greece, nature, tourism, travel

Alonissos Poem. Song Two (in Ukrainian)

Поема про Алонісос. Пісня друга
Було на острові дуже спекотно й волого,
зовсім не так, як на Евбеї, де дмухають потужні вітри
і де сухість висушила землю в жорсткий сухар
Ми пітніли і одяг приставав до тіл, ми не мились уже пару днів
тільки в морі плавали
ми сиділи в машині, проїжджали кілька кілометрів
і виповзали оглядати місцевість на предмет ночівлі
однак усе зайнято цивілізацією
гірше того: було таке враження, ніби
острів якийсь не такий, як усі, не грецький,
геть приватизований включно із берегом.
Як виявиться згодом, воно так і є по суті.
Дорогою постійно стрічали стежини позначені:
О, кажу, а писали ж, що цей острів для ходіння!
Так от чому, чути у відповідь, ми нічого не знаходимо на березі.
А навколо види непогані. Різні острівці порозкидано
навколо Алонісоса. Але голі-голі, як консервна банка.
Там серед них розкинувся морський заповідник
із тюленями-монахами, їх оберігають і дбають про них, аби вони не вимирали.
Ми ж бачили тюленів лише серед сувенірів іншого дня.
Наш друг стогнав увесь цей час, мовляв, яка ж невдача
спіткала нас, що ми собі тут місця не знаходим,
ох, як же ж не везе! аж мало не у відчай впав
і все надіявсь на “останню спробу” – на цій паралії, на тій,
коли ж ходили ми без нього на розвідку і поверталися ні з чим,
старанно посміхались, старались вигляд мать веселий.
Аж потім рішення прийняли: на північ рухатись, на самий край,
де місце є – чи то село, чи пляж – що зветься Гέракас.
А ми ж давно вже як не їли. А те, що їли, то було
Розчаруванням: на Скопелосі дівчина
нам видала пиріг з солодким сиром. Не те!
Хотіли ми солоний.
Так от, дорога мчить нас в Геракас, і навкруги
ми зчитуємо тільки гарні знаки –
а от машин нема, це означає, що добре-таки там,
а тут дорога так собі, а отже щастя буде нам.
Ми їхали почті натхненні, з останніх сил.
Навколо види схожі були трохи
на південь Скіроса, де камені і кози
і більш нічого.
Аж Гєракас нарешті. Заїжджаєм.
Greece, travel

Αλόννησος. Alonissos

I am sure some of you if not many are already planning their summer holidays in Greece.

Some travel tips would probably help you with the place choice and the way of getting to it.

Sporades are, no doubt, worth visiting. They are situated to the north-east from Evia.

Let’s take Alonnisos. A very green island othewise called Liadromia has numerous fantastic beaches. The fastest and the cheepest way to get there is by a ferry from the tiny port Kymasi, Mantoudi, on the Evia island. One way trip per person costs around 20 euros.

For sure, you will find many rental proposals. Air_bnb has some good options: the householders propose their apartments from 33 euros per night. The prices on the Booking_com are reasonable as well: from 45 euros per night. Greek real estate sites have got nice choice, like a villa for 73 euros per night.

Here is an aerial video from Alonnisos island.

Visit also the sites:

Do not hesitate to discover new places and share your experience. Kali diamoni! Enjoy your stay!

Alonissos island, Sporades
photo from here
Euboia, Greece

Wild is the wind

Paximada is a promontory on the South Euboia. At this point the seasonal summer north wind meltemi, μελτέμι, exceeds 100 km/hour. The sea becomes rough and dynamic, you feel sand and rock dust on your teeth, you can’t walk vertically, the air is full of music of spheres, finally, meltemi can just take you like a sand grain and throw into the sea. This almost happened to me once, but I grabbed the air with my terrified hands, and that was what saved me from the falling from the rock. Victim of the small stones shrapnel, I got red bruises on my legs… What an adventure!

nature, tourism

At the end of the world: Geraistos

Here, on the south-eastern Euboean coast near the Kastri village, you can find the harbour and the sanctuary of Poseidon Gerastios where the Achaeans stopped on their way back home after the Troyan war.

There is no sign at the place like “archaeological site…” and almost no human-made traces of the presence of the god. The traces are only natural.

Attention : those who do not love to cover great distances on foot, get prepared for the 40km trail or rent an off-road vehicle.

Euboia, tourism

Fast hike in the dog day

Once upon a time, we decided to climb the mount Ochi (1.398 m) on the Euboia island. In summer. In one day, and to come back the same day. We were young and brave.

The way to the Ochi seemed to be short and easy when we contemplated it from below trying to guess which path and road we will follow. However, the optics of this area deteriorates the real condition of things and makes them seem closer. In fact, our ascension turned out to be higher and rather difficult. Quite difficult in the middle of our trail, and very difficult after we returned home.

No verdure covers the mountain. There are plenty of sources and small waterfalls at the bottom of the Ochi, and this is what makes the villages just above our city K. so attractive: they’re plunged into freshness and shadows. But after you leave behind you the last house of such a village, you cannot hope for a shadowy naturally green shelter anymore. Still, as we started our journey early in the morning, the sun was not burning until we reached the eastern slopes of the mountain.

At one spot, there was a bench of ancient roman columns of green marble called cipollino. There were mines in this area and for some reason the columns were left on the mountain without having been transferred down to the city of K.

The way to the summit was torny and painful. Per aspera ad astra… at some point the path met the road, oh, this could be a royal road to the sky, but the sun was already strong, and there was no shadow, and there was very little water left. I was not sure I would be able to climb the highest spot of the Ochi; if we were out of water, I would become exactly like this wild place – dried out and lifeless. We made a stop and had our lunch in a tube under the road, the only cool place, the only shadow on our way. The other end of the tube had a wonderful view to the eastern slopes of the mountain and to the sea.

There was only one hope: a bit higher, in a so called katafygio, in a hut for the rare tourists, we had to find some water. The hut was closed, we were the only two souls – and bodies suffering from thirst! – and there was water!!! Vrisi! How grateful I was…

We continued a bit later, after a good break. The top of the mount was still far, we passed by the tiny church of the Prophet Elias – the churches dedicated to Elias are mostly built in Greece high in the mountains. Later it was a legendary drakospito on our path, and that was it, that was almost the very top of the Ochi. The best location ever, the best panorama of the Cycladic and other islands, and an unexpectedly wonderful internet connection that was not working down in the city.

We had wine, we had lamb meat; the air was fresh and so cool up there. We needed nothing except return home that very day. We had so few time to enjoy the heights.

The way back and down was even more difficult. Once or twice we lost our way and gods bless me because I insisted on looking for the marked path which we lost, when A. proposed to take any of the old goat paths and go straightly down through the torny bushes which no one knows where they lead and how they end.

Those people in the villages above K. who saw us in the morning were extremely surprised to see us again and especially to hear that we climbed the Ochi, that we did it, and that now we were on our way home. In one day! It’s surely not a Greek way.

A. insisted that we go first to the sea to swim a bit because the sea it’s thalassotherapy you know and after that we will feel much better, no fatigue and no pain, relax you know, and that we go home only after this quick therapeutic bath. That was quite a crazy idea but I obeyed. I doubt we felt better afterwards. We came back on our last legs around midnight, and the next day we literally could not move our legs. Deep, huge muscle soreness did not allow us to leave our house the whole day after our adventure. The day after – same shit! We merely walked inside our apartment, and our motions looked too much like those of zombies… For around two weeks we were suffering from this terrible delayed onset muscle soreness…

– ‘Οχη? – No, thanks! ‘Οχι! Never ever again 🙂

 

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Eleven turtles of the Aegean

By the shores of a pretty little island that we call Yste, an island bathing in the waters of the Aegean, there were many sea turtles this summer. One just had to be a quiet swimmer or even an attentive walker.

They were eleven. Early in the morning, we went to the seaside. Early in the morning, the sea was calm, it was like a mirror, and if you looked all around you paying special attention to the blue and turquoise surface of the waters, you could see something.

You suddenly noticed a small head in the water, it looked like a very small human head, but while you tried to understand what was going on, the head felt that someone was watching it and disappeared… in order to appear a little further and a little bit later.

They were all different, slow and fast at the same time, curious and cautious, green or like sand, brown or nearly black. The turtle shells were incrusted with shells, forming always a new design. Followed by an escort of gray and green little fishes, the turtles were at grass, searching food in the rocks, at the bottom of the sea and on its surface.

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Night sky

When did you see the night sky last time ? the sky incrusted densely with the stars so that it becomes white, so that you don’t need any light?

Well, if you do not remember this moment, you have to take a boat from Kymê on Euboia which will take you to Skyros, Sporades, and after arrival head to its north-western part. You will go south next time, first enjoy the pine forest that covers the nothern half of this tiny island the port of which meets you with pompous (and funny) orchestra music.

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Go ahead and find a place on one of the beaches, and spend a night or two there. Listen to the sound of the wind in πεύκα, pine trees, to the waves, look deep into the sky – it is extremely generous during the night – and try not to fall asleep as long as you can.

And after all, the next morning, visit the miniature church by the sea, Κυρά Παναγιά.

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Find ticket prices and timetables Kymi-Skyros-Kymi (+ other Sporades islands) here.