Paximada is a promontory on the South Euboia. At this point the seasonal summer north wind meltemi, μελτέμι, exceeds 100 km/hour. The sea becomes rough and dynamic, you feel sand and rock dust on your teeth, you can’t walk vertically, the air is full of music of spheres, finally, meltemi can just take you like a sand grain and throw into the sea. This almost happened to me once, but I grabbed the air with my terrified hands, and that was what saved me from the falling from the rock. Victim of the small stones shrapnel, I got red bruises on my legs… What an adventure!
There was the Analog before the Digital era. And there was our Crimea before the russians’ invasion.
Here’s me in Tauris at the very beginning of the XXI century.
Cape Aja, a unique, sublime rocky place. And deadly, because the rocks fall from time to time and sometimes crazy people staying in tents there under the rocks die. Aja Cape is on the shores of the Pontus Euxinus. Closed territory since 2014, exactly as it was during the soviet period.
Yes, we did all this way up… We still do it sometimes, but not in the Crimea. In Greece.
By the shores of a pretty little island that we call Yste, an island bathing in the waters of the Aegean, there were many sea turtles this summer. One just had to be a quiet swimmer or even an attentive walker.
They were eleven. Early in the morning, we went to the seaside. Early in the morning, the sea was calm, it was like a mirror, and if you looked all around you paying special attention to the blue and turquoise surface of the waters, you could see something.
You suddenly noticed a small head in the water, it looked like a very small human head, but while you tried to understand what was going on, the head felt that someone was watching it and disappeared… in order to appear a little further and a little bit later.
They were all different, slow and fast at the same time, curious and cautious, green or like sand, brown or nearly black. The turtle shells were incrusted with shells, forming always a new design. Followed by an escort of gray and green little fishes, the turtles were at grass, searching food in the rocks, at the bottom of the sea and on its surface.
When did you see the night sky last time ? the sky incrusted densely with the stars so that it becomes white, so that you don’t need any light?
Well, if you do not remember this moment, you have to take a boat from Kymê on Euboia which will take you to Skyros, Sporades, and after arrival head to its north-western part. You will go south next time, first enjoy the pine forest that covers the nothern half of this tiny island the port of which meets you with pompous (and funny) orchestra music.
Go ahead and find a place on one of the beaches, and spend a night or two there. Listen to the sound of the wind in πεύκα, pine trees, to the waves, look deep into the sky – it is extremely generous during the night – and try not to fall asleep as long as you can.
And after all, the next morning, visit the miniature church by the sea, Κυρά Παναγιά.
Find ticket prices and timetables Kymi-Skyros-Kymi (+ other Sporades islands) here.